>> The canton of Espalion
Espalion
The Pont Vieux,
The most famous monument of the town, is built of pink sandstone. A parchment from Conques Abbey shows that it existed in 1060. Many times altered, it long boasted 3 towers, twenty-odd shops and a drawbridge. The lord of Calmont levied a toll for the upkeep of the bridge. Closed to traffic, it is still used today for the passage of herds of cattle to the pastures of the Aubrac mountains – St-Géraud’s Day (at the end of may).La place du Griffoul,
between rue Droite and the bridge, was the main square of the town. In the old language “griffoul” signifies “fountain” such as we find with the town fountain, which represents one of the main ornaments. This square has been much modified since the Medieval Period, notably with the construction of the new bridge (Pont Neuf), the removal of houses on the banks of the Lot, between the two bridges, and the construction of the Quai Henri Affre. On the right bank of the Lot, between the two bridges, you can admire the old tanneries (“calquières”) and picturesque houses with corbelling and wooden balconies. The flat stones, jutting out, called “gandouliers”, were used to wash the hides. Their staircase lay-out enabled the hides to be immersed, whatever the level of the water.The Old Palace « Vieux Palais »
A Renaissance castle – was built in 1572 by « Noble Bernadin de la Valette » a captain serving the Lord(s) of Calmont during the wars of religion. You will appreciate its mullion windows, its corner turret and its “loggia” overlooking the Lot. Placed at the disposition of the “Association Renaissance du Vieux Palais”, it has become a place of welcome, for artists, with its apartments and showrooms.“Le Foirail”
the old cattle market, is the ideal place from which to get a special view of the Pont-Vieux and the “Vieux Palais” reflecting in the waters of the Lot. You will find there the original statue of the skittle player, erected in 1992 for the 80 years codification of the game of skittles of eight.The “Chapelle de la confrérie des Pénitents”
in rue du Plô, built in 1700 from stones of the tower of Pont-Vieux, its facade is decorated with a modest portal, a curvilinear pediment and an oculus. An association, newly formed, has taken on the task of its restoration. The “Place du Puits”, an elegant building of the Renaissance period was the birthplace of Pierre Assézat, who prospered from the trade of the pastel-dye and had constructed, at Toulouse, the sumptuous Assézat Renaissance hôtel, seat of the Academy of Science, Writing and Literature.The old church of St-Jean
whose construction began at the end of the 15th century, was built on the site of the hospice of the town. It served the parishioners until 1883. After transformation it became the Town Hall until 1948. In 1978 the building was restored to accommodate the Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions, founded by Joseph Vaylet, then it became the Museum of diving apparatus.The Joseph Vaylet Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions
presents a traditional Rouergat (regional) interior of the 19th century (“cantou”, scullery and furniture collection) as well as a rich collection of bedside wash-stands. Brought together by Joseph Vaylet, Man of Letters, founder of the Museum, these collections constitute a real heritage of the Rouergue.The Diving Museum
has been created around the inventions of Rouquayrol and Denayrouze (both of Espalion) who, in 1864, invented the first modern autonomous diving machine in the history of diving. The first trials were carried out in the Lot. Numerous rare, indeed unique pieces are exhibited and attract specialists from the world over. A statue of a diver, as tribute to the ingenious inventors, which had been placed in the year 2000, was unfortunately carried away by the recent floods of December 2003.The Parish Church
was consecrated in 1883 and built of limestone. The buttresses and the façade are in sandstone. Note the two statues of the Virgin and St-Joseph on the 45 metre-high towers, and the three on the tympanum : The Good Shepherd, St-John The Baptist and St-Hilarian – Patron Saint of the city. Inside, a bronze bas relief representing the martyr St-Hilarian, is the work of Espalion sculptor Denys Puech.The Museum of the Rouergue region
The rooms on the first floor are reserved for the library of the Joseph Vaylet Museum, with a wealth of more than 6000 titles drawing on the history, traditions and language of Occitaine (access is strictly limited to learned inquirers). Situated in the ancient prison of the town, it houses various collections of art and traditions of Rouergue. This house of arrest, built in 1838, was the first solitary prison building in France. Men were placed in the right wing, women in the left, with the central building serving as a chapel. It was closed in 1933 when prisons were centralised.The Castle of Calmont d’Olt
perched on a basalt peak, overlooks the Lot Valley and provides an exceptional panoramic view of the Causses (limestone plateau) of the Aubrac district. Occupied since the year 1000, this medieval fortress was abandoned in 1750. It has a historic monument listing. On this route of the Lords of Rouergue it is the place for medieval activities on the theme of the siege of the fortress with catapult machines. There is a games circuit where children can win the Diploma of Knight of the Castle.Perse Church
is a jewel of Roman art dating back to the 9th century. Built of pink sandstone in the town’s cemetery, it is situated on the pilgrim path of St-Jacques de Compostelle. It was for long the parish church, before the town spread towards the West around the bridge. The fine sculptured portal juxtaposes two subjects : the tympan represents the Pentecost, and the lintel evokes The Apocalypse and The Last Judgement. The apse, surmounted by its “comb-style” belfry that can be admired from below, represents the most remarkable part of the building.
TO SEE IN THE DISTRICT
Saint-Côme-d’Olt
A medieval town, listed as “the most beautiful in France” which takes us many centuries back, with its circular town lay-out, three fortified gates, alleys and ancient dwellings. The 14th century church has a curious flame-shaped belfry (clocher tor). The visit will also reveal the Chapel of the Penitents, of Roman style, the first church of St-Côme, magnificent “carenne” roofs and the old suburb of trading stalls that leads down to the bridge over the Lot.
Don’t miss the “Lava Flow” (misnamed).
In fact it’s a basalt outcrop that extends over the hill overlooking St-Côme and the Lot Valley. The view is wonderful. Situated 800 metres in front of the Roquelaure Castle, this impressive field of stones, called “Clapas de Thubiès” disappears into a forest of beech, oak and chestnut trees. On a volcanic peak stands the hamlet of Roquelaure with its feudal castle many times restored throughout the centuries (closed to the public) and its chapel Roman apse and Gothic nave. It has a 16th century death Stake. From behind the chapel there is a splendid panoramic view. In the village of Lassouts,
overlooking the lake, proudly stands its church, St-Jacques, of Gothic style. It was built by the master craftsmen who constructed Rodez cathedral, and has a Roman tympanum with Christ in majesty surrounded by a “tétramorphe” and 6 Apostles.
The lake of Castelnau-Lassouts
an artificial lake whose dam was completed in 1949, is an interesting fishing spot (game, and night carp fishing). It has a pleasant 30 kms long forest track to round off the visit. Cambon Church, a fine, large Roman building was restored in 1530 by Antoine Salvanh, the Rodez Cathedral architect. It has a “comb” belfry and contains valuable furnishings, with two retables of the 17th century and some frescoes. In one of the six chapels are several statues of the 15th and 16th centuries.On the other side of the lake the village of Mandailles has been built along the length of a rocky ridge and drops steeply to the lake, whence the local expression, “as long as Mandailles”. The site is very pretty with 16th century dwellings, mullion windows and vaulted cellars. There are castle ruins below the village. Situated on the first spurs of the Aubrac, Castelnau de Mandailles (the “new castle”) is a mountain-type village of picturesque roofs and ancient dwellings, a restored castle, and remains of fortifications.
Le Cayrol
at one of the entries to Aubrac, is a commune of recent foundation (1866) which has noteworthy slate quarries of the region. The amazing shape of the fortified church of Anglars of Cayrol recalls the disturbed periods of the 15th and 16th centuries.
The Abbay of Bonneval
is a monastery of the Cistercian Order founded in 1147 by the Lord of Calmont (Espalion). Abandoned to The Revolution, the ruins were raised again by a community of Trappists. See the beautiful Virgin and Child of the 12th century, above the portal. According to the regulation of St-Benoît, the monks live by the labour of their hands : they make excellent chocolate. Actually a small chocolate workshop was installed in 1878, and since then this tiny industry has enabled the monks to provide themselves with all things necessary to their community. There is a diaporama show every afternoon at 16.30 (free entry).
The Church of St-Pierre of Bessuéjouls,
situated in a setting of greenery is a beautiful building of pink sandstone which, in its present state, dates from the 16th century. In the chair there is a lovely baroque retable. The belfry-porch, the most ancient, was retained when the building underwent modifications. A narrow staircase at the end of the nave gives access to a high chapel on the first floor. A treasure of Roman art, this chapel, probably dedicated to St-Michel, is ornamented with capitals inspired by those embellished at Conques, and with a Roman altar and sculptured lintels.
